CEDAR KEY, FL
Upon reserving a 12 dollar campsite at Shell Mound, I was expecting to get a beach side tent spot with waves and a beautiful ocean breeze along the gulf coast.
That was very wrong.
But that’s why I’m here to help you do your research on this area. Let me start by asserting that this trip was in no way disappointing. That being said, I definitely didn’t need to bring the boogie board either. What started as a beach getaway ended with an unanticipated bar hop through an artistic district with a small dose of culture shock (for the better).
The Outdoors
First off, much of the Cedar key area is brushy along the coast. Air boats, long grass, mosquitos. Bring a tent with netting if you expect to camp. It’s doable, as long as you aren’t leaving yourself out in the open overnight (as per usual for a lot of Florida).
If you’re truly in need of taking a dip in Cedar Key water, you essentially have two options. Either head to Atsena Otie for an tiny beach (depending on what time of year, it can be a private one), or head to the slightly larger and more easily accessed wading beach by Lil Shark Park whenever the tide is high. You’ll be sorely disappointed at low tide, unless you’re interested in walking out from the park into the water at knee deep level for a hundred yards. Still, this is a nice area to relax and cool off during the day.
Downtownish
The far more interesting area in Cedar Key is the loop connecting A street and C Street, which is an adorable miniature beach side downtown area. We were more than pleasantly surprised with the Saturday night along this stretch: good food, well priced drinks, live music and a welcoming community. There are only about 3 or 4 bars in the area, but they’re all worth going to since they’re so close. Duncans (by the fishing pier) was preferred for a more relaxed environment and views off the deck, but Big Deck had livelier entertainment, and fantastic curly fries.
Interestingly enough, Cedar Key has an oddly liberal arts feel for an area in what is essentially rural Florida. There’s a sense of universal acceptance here; you can be whoever you want to be, and you’ll be welcomed. Quite a few characters sat alongside us in the bars and on the street; the locals never batted an eye.
If you’re a fan of chicken biscuits, Holey Moley is definitely the place to go for breakfast. While many of their donuts are standard (excluding the specialty ones behind the counter), the real treat here is the homemade baked honey biscuits and fried chicken sandwich, which was a fantastic value in my opinion.
Long story short, if you have a short weekend and need to spend a night away relaxing, Cedar Key is in no way a bad option. Though not the tropical destination you may have expected for the gulf coast, it’s certainly a unique, quality getaway in it’s own.
Interests and Oddities
Atsena Otie key, just off of the docks from Cedar Key, has a long history of habitation, economic development, and war. Evacuated over the course of the early 20th century, the island still houses a graveyard and some unique ruins from the Faber Pencil Mill, which was destroyed in a hurricane in 1896. Dont fall down the hole! In the off season, its possible to get the entire island to yourself for a couple hours on a drop off (15 bucks), or by renting a kayak and venturing over yourself. That is, if you’re willing to brave the Ocean. We weren’t. Either way, start at one of the boat stations or Kayak rental stands on A street to begin your trek. Most vendors go twice daily.
Cemetery (Forks off into multiple paths)
Beach/Usual Atsena Otie Drop off Spot